Paper Jet So Close

Boring Epoxy pics for the next couple of pics yet it really makes the marine grade plywood show off.

Epoxy top side epoxied.

Portside cedar tip both had good and worth all the hand work to make them shine.

Starboard cedar tip detail turned out really nice.

Bow spirit hole in.

The final coat of epoxy makes it hard to know that this beauty will all be covered in paint later.

The bow rub rails are in with a little of a epoxy problem. I put these in between in events and done so in a quick way and recieved due punishment of epoxy that ran out the white that shows under the rail. A bit of sanding took care of it and yet clearly one step forward and two back.

The top mast and bow spirit complete.

LIMBO!!! Yes in the shop. Just kidding this the the boom at 8ft fits well in a 8ft shop just jam it between walls and start all that hand sanding. Way in the back round you can see the dagger board going together.

X frame going in used blue painters tape to keep the epoxy out of the slots.

This is quiet possibablity the bigest mistake. I knew that I would have to trim the X deck to length but never planed to trim the width. I was stupid enought to lay out and cut the slots to manfacured width and never occured to me that I may have to trim the width in. So here lies the proof that even well inted plan can still fail.

X deck is in I am at this point am just hoping that the scrap left over from the center board will be the right fix.

This was my fix to the mistake made when I laid out my X deck

Center Board I was running out of time. It is now May almost June and loosing good sailing weather time still building the boat. So I cheated a little on both the center board here and the dagger board. Ruffed out in the table saw and roughter and then planed and sanded by hand. Still lots of hand work I like doing it just wish I had started the build earlier so the good weather and water was not calling my name.

PAPER JET UP DATE (GETTING THERE)

The wing framing continues here. Getting things lined up epoxied in and such.

The center mound going in. First step was to dry fit it then use masking tape to assemble it. Seccond was take it off the mound and epoxy fillet the interior let cure and then epoxy it down to the deck.

The start of the mast support frames.

Dry fit of those solid cedar wing tips. The call on the directions was to filp the boat over I was able to do it right side up with some help from quick grip. Hind sight tells me that gluing the cedar to thick ness (two 3/4 boards) then cutting the angle cut that meets the bow was the wrong move. I used the table saw to do this and yet think it would be better to cut that angle on a scrol saw with the table set at a 38-45 deg angle cut the two boards then glue them to thickness and sand to finish. The table saw worked out ok but created a lot of hand work to get the cedar to bump in to fit. Doing this step one 3/4 board at at time would be little easer.

This show a little of the clamp detail for the wing tips look closely and see that the blue quick grip is just over the edge and holding up ward pressure on to a half inch popular strip shown in next picture.

This is the under side basically the popular strips are screwed to wing frames keeping upward pressure on wing tip while epoxy dries.

The under side of the complete wings now getting epoxy fillets in all joints against hull.

The epoxy fillet here is where keeping all scrap off the ply wood sheets work out very well. The half moon shapes from the center cut outs for the mast support is the perfect filleting tool for this fillet. Just sand mark for max material condition mix epoxy and go.

The boat is officially out of the house. The house worked out well just ready to have my living room back after about three months. Started the build Dec 23 out by April 3. Moving along good now is the start on all that sanding.

Just a 4x8 foldable trailer that I got for $200 made my v blocks from 3/4 play wood scrap laying around and used 1/2 in pipe insulation for bumpers. Tempory untill I get sanding and epoxy on then 2x4s covered in carpet that tilt like what is on boat trailer will go on the back. Still having great fun with this project.

CHERRY CUPBOARD AND DISPLAY CASE

I was fortunate enough to have a customer send me final pics of this project. The build pics are on down on the page.

This is the start of a cup board and display case. Solid cherry in picture above is where it started and finished out as I had planed and designed. Customer brought me just the need and sizes of cups and plates and how many the rest I came up with. I wish I had gotten more pictures of the processes to give a better understanding into such a project. It is a 30 x 30 x5 case but has over 54 joints the rest of the pictures show the work comming together.

The back framing assembly the panneled framming is all half lap joints where most of the 54 joints take place.

Here is the middle shelves kept the half lap joint flowing right through every thing once the case sides, and top were on it ended up a very solid unit.

Assembly of sides top starts and looks good finished all interior serfaces before assembly.

Side view finished product.

Top view of the beautiful cherry.

Front view glass gave me flash back.

Front view no flash back give a better idea of pannel details, and hooks. Just a grove in all surfaces to hold the plates.

Last thoughts include wish I had a better supplier for cherry really good stuff just would of been nice to have a little straighter half inch material.

Paper Jet continues

The dry fit of top and sides to determine inside out side of panels and the start of lay out. And yes a little excitment that it is ready for the top to go down.

The lay out and gluing of the wing. Dry fit the top lay out mast frame before gluing things together and down. The exterior of that crazy 45 deg corner turned out ok.

Interior of that crazy 45deg corner that was described in the last post. With some sanding and tlc this turned out ok. The material for mast getting scarfed together. Sides and top getting epoxied on the interior.

Here it a trial run on 2foot of scrap the boom is just a tick longer than 8foot so I used 10' boards then used the scrap to do a trial run, 8 foot was real treat. Here is my completed boom. The detail about how this is done is down on the mast pics. Had struggles on my first 8' run but it turned out ok. Little disapointed in the fact it did not turn out straight. Hope it does not show in the wind! Putting four years of college books to good use and a couple of atv straps to help make sure the top makes good contact with frames as epoxy sets. To much? maybe better off doing it right the first time.

Still can not see much here a total of 35 zip ties one for every 6 inches. The proses went really well even by my self. Had everything laid out where the cores went on the interior, the epoxy was all premeasured out in the utility room ready to mix and go. Used quarter quart zip lock style bags for fillet tool turned it wrong side out then once the epoxy was mixed gather as much as I could on the stick and push the corner of the bag back in as I emptied the 3oz of epoxy mix and a scrach awe to open the corner. Lay a bead in the V notch of the birds mouth smoth with finger before fliping over and the finally placing in the U shaped forms. By the way 3oz works perfect for 16 foot. Here it is official 18' of mast all ziped together. Only 16' is needed stager the scarf joints to get the most strength posible. Completed on Feb 28 at 28 degrees and sunny.

New up date

Sides getting ziped and epoxy on.

Now for the start on the interior.

Flip back over cut ties this is the poit that I got my first war woond cutting tip ties off with a razor knife. No blood on the boat though! All zip ties cut put a smooth fillet on all joints, and fill the screw holes that screwed the bow bottoms to framing.

Fore foot at bow is cut and sanded in all most ready for glass.

Glass is in on all joints the only challenge was getting the glass to lay flat on that fore foot nose, had to keep after the two wrinkles to keep them flat until epoxy set.

The start of laying out framing for wings.

The start of 90 deg V grove for birds mouth on staves ran all popular for boom and then came back later to run the Mast material. This simple set up worked really well the only challenge was keeping material down. I wore a leather glove with lots of thumb pressure just before the roughter bit. One piece of mdf scrap with a tool clamp to run material straight a roughter with 1/2 90 deg bit and one one gal vac to keep house clean!

There's that boat!

Wing frames going in the rear 45deg is extremly tough because it is located on a back transom at 1deg out of plumb that meets a 74deg side at a 90deg to frame. I spent a tone of time getting this set up and still blew the first side over size here is what I found as a result. The set up for the cut out should go as follows. First measure down the back transom on the out side 32mm and draw a line on the out side of the side of the boat this line does not have to be long but sets the depth of cut down the side. Next measure from the out side of the transom down the top side of the side 72mm. From the 72mm mark down to the 32mm mark set a protractor for 53 deg ( I was able to establish this with a very accurate machinst protractor with the grace of the material you could go any where between 50 to 55 deg and be ok. The up shot is if all goes wrong and you blow over size like I did on my first side it is a extremely easy fix set some masking tape on the out side of the side light lay a epoxy fillet on the inside and let set.