Paper Jet continues

The dry fit of top and sides to determine inside out side of panels and the start of lay out. And yes a little excitment that it is ready for the top to go down.

The lay out and gluing of the wing. Dry fit the top lay out mast frame before gluing things together and down. The exterior of that crazy 45 deg corner turned out ok.

Interior of that crazy 45deg corner that was described in the last post. With some sanding and tlc this turned out ok. The material for mast getting scarfed together. Sides and top getting epoxied on the interior.

Here it a trial run on 2foot of scrap the boom is just a tick longer than 8foot so I used 10' boards then used the scrap to do a trial run, 8 foot was real treat. Here is my completed boom. The detail about how this is done is down on the mast pics. Had struggles on my first 8' run but it turned out ok. Little disapointed in the fact it did not turn out straight. Hope it does not show in the wind! Putting four years of college books to good use and a couple of atv straps to help make sure the top makes good contact with frames as epoxy sets. To much? maybe better off doing it right the first time.

Still can not see much here a total of 35 zip ties one for every 6 inches. The proses went really well even by my self. Had everything laid out where the cores went on the interior, the epoxy was all premeasured out in the utility room ready to mix and go. Used quarter quart zip lock style bags for fillet tool turned it wrong side out then once the epoxy was mixed gather as much as I could on the stick and push the corner of the bag back in as I emptied the 3oz of epoxy mix and a scrach awe to open the corner. Lay a bead in the V notch of the birds mouth smoth with finger before fliping over and the finally placing in the U shaped forms. By the way 3oz works perfect for 16 foot. Here it is official 18' of mast all ziped together. Only 16' is needed stager the scarf joints to get the most strength posible. Completed on Feb 28 at 28 degrees and sunny.

New up date

Sides getting ziped and epoxy on.

Now for the start on the interior.

Flip back over cut ties this is the poit that I got my first war woond cutting tip ties off with a razor knife. No blood on the boat though! All zip ties cut put a smooth fillet on all joints, and fill the screw holes that screwed the bow bottoms to framing.

Fore foot at bow is cut and sanded in all most ready for glass.

Glass is in on all joints the only challenge was getting the glass to lay flat on that fore foot nose, had to keep after the two wrinkles to keep them flat until epoxy set.

The start of laying out framing for wings.

The start of 90 deg V grove for birds mouth on staves ran all popular for boom and then came back later to run the Mast material. This simple set up worked really well the only challenge was keeping material down. I wore a leather glove with lots of thumb pressure just before the roughter bit. One piece of mdf scrap with a tool clamp to run material straight a roughter with 1/2 90 deg bit and one one gal vac to keep house clean!

There's that boat!

Wing frames going in the rear 45deg is extremly tough because it is located on a back transom at 1deg out of plumb that meets a 74deg side at a 90deg to frame. I spent a tone of time getting this set up and still blew the first side over size here is what I found as a result. The set up for the cut out should go as follows. First measure down the back transom on the out side 32mm and draw a line on the out side of the side of the boat this line does not have to be long but sets the depth of cut down the side. Next measure from the out side of the transom down the top side of the side 72mm. From the 72mm mark down to the 32mm mark set a protractor for 53 deg ( I was able to establish this with a very accurate machinst protractor with the grace of the material you could go any where between 50 to 55 deg and be ok. The up shot is if all goes wrong and you blow over size like I did on my first side it is a extremely easy fix set some masking tape on the out side of the side light lay a epoxy fillet on the inside and let set.

Boatpj#25

Still learning here scrol from the bottom up to get the corect progression! The build is well on the way. More up dates to come. Epoxy in zip ties tight. Bottom on!

sorry about the finger. Zip ties in on botom getting ready for epoxy.

Casing dry sides and botom ready. First fumble made for the project glued the wrong ends to the wrong sides. I checked and dubbled checked before epoxy still got it wrong. Was not able to figure this out until sides went on in the dry fit. Just one note to builders dry fiting everything is a really good idea may cost more in zip ties and yet that is a small cost to scraping out a bunch of epoxy or marine grade ply! One ended up short one was long. Recovery included carefull use of utility kife to cut the joint sanding and reassembly. Let desiner of the kit know he has fixed the problem many thanks to Dudley for his great support during this entire prosess!

Casing on clamped in, back bone all one unit. no going back now.

Clamps on, line up done used 8'skill saw straight edge to help sit straight ness just long enough to catch all four bulk heads, measued for center, dry fit angle of dagger board casing in then epoxy.

Line up well on the way clamps going on.

Back transum on casing frames on getting it all lined up for center, straight and corect angles for bulk heads and dagerboard casing. Note spent a lot of time getting this hammered out check and dubble check the 2x4s make sure they have not warped had to put in bracing to keep 2x4's straight.

Back transum glued, dagger board casing going together in back ground.

Start of back bone back transum on floor ready to be glued.

New BOAT!!!

Frames built, 2x2 at one degree out of plumb just clamped until framing is on then screwed down to prevent movement during back bone glue up.

Start of building frames. It turns out that it was a good idea to screw the 3/4 board to set the width then screwed the 3/4 board to the saw horses from under side. The location of front saw horse ends up getting in the way of the sides of the boat sitting at the corect angle. So just a matter of unscrewing from underside and moving them back.

Not PJ#25 CLC 16' KAYAK I BUILT 5 YEARS AGO. Fall of 08 after new varnish.

New to this

Today is a start to this new technology (to me any way). Hope to start with pics comming soon.